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Manicure Tutorial

How to Cultivate Beautiful Natural Nails?

by LynEva 01 Nov 2022 0 Comments

Editor's Note:

I've had tiny nail beds since childhood, and they used to be extremely prone to breakage. I never dared to grow long nails, let alone indulge in manicures. Later, I sought advice from a dermatologist who shared a valuable insight. The doctor explained that nails, like hair, are considered appendages of the skin, and changes in nutrition, environment, and lifestyle can influence the characteristics of nails. Just like hair, healthy and beautiful nails can be cultivated. As long as the C-curve increases, the free edge moves forward, and the nail bed becomes larger, your nails can become healthier and more attractive.

At that time, I was entirely unfamiliar with these terms, so I began a journey of continuous learning and eventually mastered the proper techniques for nail care. Now, I share these methods to you.

Nail Bed, Free Edge, C-Curve and Sidewall

The structure of nails is quite complex, but if our primary concern is the appearance of the nails, it's sufficient to understand the concepts of the nail bed, free edge, and C-curve.

Nail Bed: Simply put, it's the part of the nail plate that is attached to the flesh.

Free Edge: The free edge is where the nail bed and the white tip of the nail meet. In its normal state, the free edge aligns with the fingertip, forming a natural and symmetrical curve resembling a crescent moon or the corners of a smiling mouth. That's why it's sometimes referred to as the smile line (as indicated by the red line in the illustration).

Typically, people feel their nails appear small due to having a small nail bed and a receded free edge. In the lower right image, it's clear that the nail bed above is smaller, affecting the aesthetics of the hand.

 

C-Curve: The curvature of the nail plate at the fingertip. Nails with a longer free edge tend to have a more pronounced C-curve. From an aesthetic perspective, nails with a pronounced C-curve often look better than those with a flatter C-curve.

Sidewall: The curvature along the side of the nail is known as the sidewall. A normal lateral nail curve is rounded, with its highest point approximately at the midpoint of the nail bed, and the line connecting the starting and ending points of the sidewall is roughly parallel to the fingertip. Otherwise, it may present as flat nails, downward-curved nails, or upward-curved nails.

Fan-shaped Nails: Normal nails typically have a consistent width from top to bottom. However, as the name suggests, fan-shaped nails have a shape resembling a fan, with a narrower base and a broader, diverging top. Generally, the C-curve of fan-shaped nails is quite shallow, essentially flat, causing these nails not to 'grab' the flesh easily, making them prone to outward flipping. To improve fan-shaped nails, it's essential to enhance the C-curve, allowing the free edge to move forward and the nail bed to expand.

 

7 Don'ts and 1 Do

1. Don't Trim Nails Too Short. Consider that many professions do not permit long nails, so leave about 1-2 mm to ensure all fingertips have enough nail coverage and to allow for an extended free edge. Frequently trimming nails too close to the smile line can cause the nail bed to naturally recede for protection and, over time, lead to shortened nail beds.

2. Don't remove dead skin too frequently. The so-called dead skin is actually cuticle, an important protective barrier for nails. If this layer is removed, it makes the nail matrix vulnerable to pollutants and pathogens, leading to irreparable damage. If you want to remove cuticles for cosmetic reasons, use proper methods, as improper handling can create small gaps, which can lead to ingrown nails or paronychia (nail groove inflammation).

3. Avoid Nail Biting: Many people have the habit of nail biting, which can lead to uneven nail edges. More importantly, it can cause the free edge to recede, which is not conducive to nail bed health and can result in damage to the fingertips.

4. Avoid Picking at Nails: Many people tend to pick at the free edge when they feel something is stuck under their nails. In such cases, it's essential to resist the urge and instead rinse and soak your nails with clean water. Picking can damage the free edge, which, over time, can lead to shortened nail beds.

5. Avoid Using Nails for Tasks: Use the fingertip or finger pad rather than nails to handle objects. Constantly using nails for tasks can lead to nail separation from the nail bed and a backward shift of the free edge. If the nail breaks in the middle of the nail bed, it can lead to finger injury and difficult maintenance.

6. Keep Nails Clean: Prevent dirt and debris from accumulating under the nails. Clean hands thoroughly, especially in the area around the free edge, allowing room for growth and preventing blockage by foreign material.

7. Limit Excessive Manicures: The chemicals in nail polish, nail glue, and nail polish removers can harm the nail surface. Moreover, the tools used in nail salons, such as files and buffers, might not always undergo strict disinfection, potentially causing fungal infections. Frequent manicures can make nails thinner and more brittle. The least damaging way to maintain nail health is to wait until the new nail fully grows out before performing any new nail treatments. Nails grow on average about 3.5 mm per month, so it takes at least 3 months to obtain a completely new nail plate. This means you can have a maximum of 4 nail treatments per year if you want to keep your fingertips beautiful. To maintain beautiful nails continuously, you can consider using artificial nails or other nail enhancements.

8. Regularly Apply Hand Cream and Cuticle Oil: When applying hand cream, make sure to apply it to the rear and sides of the nails. If your nails are bare, you can also apply hand cream to the nail surface. It's best to apply cuticle oil up to the first joint of your fingers. Combining hand cream and cuticle oil can be a good choice. Regular hand masks can make the skin smoother and help reduce hangnails and dead skin. It's recommended to apply hand cream whenever you wash your hands and before bedtime.

 

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